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TO
RE-FINANCE, OR NOT
TO RE-FINANCE, THAT
IS THE
QUESTION
The simple fact whether or
not you should re-finance from your current mortgage into some other type of loan does not
have a simple answer. It depends
on your expected remaining tenure in the property, the age and type
and rate of your current note, your current balance, whether or not your
current note bears a prepayment penalty, and a number of other factors. Remember this: "Only
change your loan program if the end result
proves to be fully to your benefit after all costs and repercussions of the change are
taken into account."
A common standard heard is:
"lower your rate by 2% and remain
another 2 years in the property." It's
really not that simple any
more. Assuming it ever was that simple.
Observe
The Following Examples:
THE INTEREST RATE
Just because you can lower your interest rate by re-financing doesn't mean you
will come out the winner.
Take this example:
( EXAMPLE # 1 )Lets say it will cost $4,000 to re-finance and you will lower the
payment $100 month while dropping the rate 3%.
If you sell your house in 2 years,
did you come out ahead?
Let's see:
( 2 years = 24 months
24 x 100 per month = 2,400
2,400 - 4,000 = <-1,600> loss ) It would appear not.
If you spend 4,000 (whether its either out of pocket or rolled into the loan) at
100 month,
it will take 40 months (100 x 40 = 4,000) to recuperate the expense.
And that doesn't even take into consideration how much interest you could earn on
4,000 over 40 months.
Don't ever lose sight of the Big Picture.
Just because its not lowered by 2% doesn't mean you didn't win either.
For example: ( EXAMPLE # 2) Lets say it costs $2,000 to re-finance and the payment
is lowered $200 month even though the rate only dropped by 1%.
Did you come out ahead ?
Lets see:
( 2 years = 24 months
24 x 200 per month = 4,800
4,800 - 2,000 = 2,800 benefit)
It would appear so.
The only fact that matters is:
Do you come out ahead within an acceptable time after the
costs are factored in?
TIP
# 1
"If you incur an expense to change your loan program,
you must determine how long it will take to recuperate that expense regardless of
rate,
costs
and/or loan balances."
TIP
# 2
Sometimes the lender can pay-off your current loan
while giving you a new loan without any expense whatsoever.
This is called a "true" No-Cost Loan.
Don't be confused by a loan where the costs are simply rolled into the loan. Just because you don't write a check at
closing doesn't mean there aren't costs. If
you roll anything into the loan, you lose
equity! In a true no-cost loan, your new loan amount stays the same as your
current loan balance.
TIP # 3
If you choose to keep an escrow account (the account that collects taxes &
insurance as part of your house payment) but you prefer not to write a check for all your
taxes at closing,
you may be able to roll into the loan the moneys needed to set up your escrow
account.
This will increase your loan balance after closing the new loan but you can pay the
balance back down in only a few weeks using the refund from your old escrow account.
(Assuming you have a balance in your old escrow account with your current mortgage
company)
The down-side to this maneuver is that your monthly payment is set-up based on the
initial loan amount.
Just because you pay the balance back down doesn't make your payment drop
unless your loan is an ARM (Adjustable Rate Mortgage)
THE PAYMENT
Just because you lower the payment doesn't mean you come out ahead.
Remember Example # 1 ?
Just because the payment increases doesn't mean you lost either!
For example: ( EXAMPLE # 3 ) Lets say it costs $4,000 to refinance and your payment
increases $112 per month.
Your current balance is $60,000 with a payment of $600 per month on a 30 year loan
with 22 years left on it and you take out a $60,000 new 10 year loan at $712 per month.
If you sell the house in 5 years,
do you come out ahead?
Lets see:
$112 more per month x 5
years(112 x 60)
=
$6,720.00
more paid in payment
Your balance after 5 more years on your old loan would have been $ 55,803.56
Your balance after 5 years on the new loan would be $ 35,543.09
$4,000 loan costs + $6,720 higher payment =
$10,720
$20,260 lower loan
balance less $10,720 =
$9,540
Net
Benefit
As you can see,
even though you paid $4000 in loan costs AND increased your payment $112 per month,
you still come out way ahead.
You can't determine if you win or lose until you see the entire picture.
A lot depends on your future plans with the property.
TIP
# 4
Some borrowers are only 10 to 15
years from having their loan paid off and refinance it back onto a 30 or 40 year loan. Why???? Because they have access
to a better investment than the property.
For example: ( EXAMPLE # 4 ) Lets say
the current $42,000 loan has only 8 years left with a payment of $600 per month. After re-financing back to a 30 year
loan, the payment drops to $275 per month freeing up $325 per month to use elsewhere. If you had access to an investment
like a good stock option plan (lets say earning a 30% return) with a large company, the house could be paid off in approximately
4 years using the same $600 per month. $275
per month paid to the mortgage lender and $325 per month into the company plan. $325 per month at a 30% return would
grow enough to payoff the loan in less than 48 months.
A little financial planning. Think
about it. Do you have any type of
investment opportunity with your company?
There's
not enough paper in the world to show every scenario of loan re-structuring to benefit the
borrower. I hope to make it clear that
until every stone has been turned, you simply
cannot know if a re-finance will benefit you. Too
much depends on you and the future.
Again
I suggest consulting your situation with a mortgage expert.
TIP
# 5
Be
aware that sometimes you will save notably more money by
shortening your note, such as going from a 30 yr loan to a 25, 20,
15 or 10 yr new loan. Your house payment may not drop very much, or
stay about the same, or perhaps even increase some. But the final
result can end up saving you much more money. In fact, sometimes
many times over. Simply lowering your payment amount is often times
NOT the smartest thing to do. |